A stroll in the old city of Nafplio and Spaghetti Aglio e Olio, with Roasted Garlic and Tuna / Σπαγγέτι με Τόνο και Ψητό Σκόρδο και μιά βόλτα στην παλιά πόλη του Ναυπλίου

Μετάφραση της συνταγής πιο κάτω

Hello from Athens again,

Before coming to Athens, I’ve been trying to write a blog post for over a week unsuccessfully and I haven’t been visiting my friends’ blogs for quite a long time, as I hardly find any time any more.

Living in the countryside is so beautiful that one cannot stay at home for long.

Besides the weather is so good that we still go to the beach almost every day, after going for shopping and cooking.  By the time we finish eating and showering it’s almost afternoon, so we need to rest for a couple of hours to continue doing some other house chores, after sunset when it’s not so hot.

Some days we don’t feel like sitting at home for a long time so we usually go to Nafplio for a stroll in the city.

Nafplio, known by the locals as Anafpli, is one of the most picturesque and romantic places to visit.  Its streets are a palette of colours, especially when the bougainvilleas are in full bloom.

After walking around its narrow streets, we sit to rest and enjoy a cup of coffee at the sea front gazing at  Bourdji, the landmark of the city, or at Palamidi from Syntagma Square.

We are still new here and there are so many places we haven’t explored or visited yet.

I have written about Nafplio in previous posts and you can find the links below.  Nafplio is such a beautiful town, steeped with history so I am sure there will be more posts in the future as well.

Our last stroll was on a Saturday morning.

We parked our car in the parking of a beautiful park near Pronia and from there we walked across the farmers’ market, which is twice a week, on Wednesdays and Saturdays.

In the park there is a small pond, a lovely cafteria, lots of places for the children to play, as well as the old train station.  The train is not operating any more and the old train station is now operating as the Municipal Music school. A train still sitting there is full of graffiti.

This time of the year, you can find amazing fresh vegetables and fruit but also other local products such as fresh eggs, live snails, wine, grape must (moustos), petimezi (concentrated grape syrup), nuts, honey from citrus trees but also thyme honey, from flora and coniferous trees, all kinds of olives, hand made pasta (chilopites) most of which are from the Argolic plain or from nearby Tripoli.

On the same road, on 25th March street, opposite the farmers’ market is the Fire brigade as well as two cinemas, one serving during wintertime and the other is an open air summer cinema, which is a lovely experience if you have never visited one.

Just where the farmers’ market ends there is a statue with no inscription.  I guess that it must be dedicated to the unknown soldier or if the woman represents Greece, it could be the soldier sacrificing himself for his country.  If anyone knows what it is please let me know as well.

A few minutes away, we reached the  Old Land Gate.  

From there you can see Palamidi castle and from there if you do not want to go by car, which is about 3 km from Pronia, you can climb up its 999 steps to reach the top, where you can enjoy a panoramic view of the Argolic bay, the Argolic plain, Acronafplia, the old town of Nafplio and of course a beautiful view of the castle of Argos in the background  as well as the Argolic plain and the nearby villages.

The view will compensate you even on a cloudy winter day.

In the park is the statue of Staikos Staikopoulos, a general who participated in the Greek Revolution for Independence and with only 350 men, sieged Palamidi for several months and finally conquered.  In the background, there is a beautiful cafeteria with small waterfalls, which is a lovely place to rest and enjoy a cold drink on a hot day.

From there, passing from narrow, beautiful streets, we reached the Catholic Church or Frankoklissia, as it is called in Greek (the church of the Franks).   The church is just next to Sarai Hotel, the fuchsia building below.

This building on the left used to be the First Courthouse of Greece, now operating as a hotel.

Day or night the view of Palamidi is breathtaking.

The Franks occupied Nafplio in the years 1212 to 1388.   In the nineteenth century it was converted into a mosque, by the Turks. In 1840, after the Independence,it was consecrated as a Catholic church again and it was dedicated to “Metamorfossi tou Sotiros” (Transfiguration of the Saviour).

This was a way to say thanks to all the philhellenes  (meaning “friends of Greece”), who had assisted King Otto during the freedom fights.

There is a crypt in the courtyard where the bones of the philhellenes are kept. Some of the Bavarian soldiers died after a devastating typhoid epidemic in Nafplion.  They were originally buried in the cemetery of Aghii Pantes, but later their bones were exhumed and now lie under the crypt of the church.  The place where they were originally buried is marked with a memorial showing a sleeping Lion on the rock. (You can read more here).  In the Church, right above the entrance the door is surrounded with inscriptions of the names of the philhellenes who either died or were killed.

The view from the Catholic Church is beautiful either viewing Palamidi or the old town and the Argolic Gulf.

From there we rested for a while at Syntagma Square and ended our stroll at the Peloponnesian Folklore Foundation Museum.

Apart from the costumes, you can see everyday household objects, jewelry, looms, paintings, musical instruments, military costumes, medals, etc.

Both places merit a visit but even just walking in the narrow streets of Nafplion there is always something beautiful to see.

After our stroll it was noon and yet we still wanted to go to the beach because it was so hot.  We ended back home at 3 p.m. so what’s easier than a pasta dish?  By the time we showered lunch was ready.

We came to Athens a couple of days ago to visit our children and we also had some other business we had to attend to.  I’ve also been very busy cleaning the house and cooking for my children.  Waking early in the morning or late in the evening,  I finally managed to finish this post which cannot but end with a recipe.

This is a very easy and cheap recipe which uses roasted garlic and garlic infused olive oil.  Anyone who loves pasta will be amazed by the wonderful taste and flavour.

If you are like me with a sweet tooth and always wants a dessert after lunch, check out my  Chocolate Petimezi Amygdalota Cookies and lots of ways to make good use of your leftover egg whites.

Spaghetti Aglio e Olio, with Roasted Garlic and Tuna, recipe by Ivy

Preparation time:  15 minutes

Cooking time:  15 minutes
Serves: 2


  • 200 grams spaghetti
  • Salt
  • 2 tbsp garlicky olive oil
  • 4 – 5 cloves roasted garlic
  • 1 small canned tuna (70 grams)
  • 2 tbsp chopped fresh coriander (add parsley if you don’t like it)
  • 2 small green onions
  • Salt and freshly ground black pepper
  • 3 tbsp pasta water


  1. Boil pasta al dente for 6 – 7 minutes or according to instructions on packet.  Drain and keep some pasta water.
  2. In a non-stick frying pan heat the garlic olive oil, mash the roasted garlic and sauté it for 1 – 2 minutes.  Add the pasta, with pasta water and mix.
  3. Add the drained tuna, spring onions, salt and pepper and mix to combine.
  4. Serve with more fresh herbs on top as well as freshly grated black pepper.

Λυπάμαι που δεν μπορώ αυτή τη στιγμή να μεταφράσω την ανάρτηση, αλλά θέλει πάρα πολύ χρόνο.  Θα προσπαθήσω αργότερα να ενημερώσω την ανάρτηση και στα Ελληνικά.  Υπάρχει όμως ο μεταφραστής που προς το παρόν μπορείτε να χρησιμοποιήσετε.

Αυτή η συνταγή προϋποθέτει να έχετε ψητό σκόρδο, που προσθέτει υπέροχη γεύση και άρωμα στο φαγητό.  Είναι μία πάρα πολύ εύκολη συνταγή και στοιχίζει ελάχιστα.  Εάν σας αρέσουν τα ζυμαρικά η συνταγή αυτή θα σας καταπλήξει.

Εάν είστε γλυκατζού σαν κι εμένα και θέλετε ένα γλυκάκι μετά το φαγητό, δείτε μια υπέροχη συνταγή για Σοκολατένια Αμυγδαλωτά με Πετιμέζι και επικάλυψη Σοκολάτας και πολλούς τρόπους να χρησιμοποιήσετε τα ασπράδια που σας περισσεύουν από άλλες συνταγές.

Σπαγγέτι με Τόνο και Ψητό Σκόρδο, συνταγή της Ήβης

Χρόνος προετοιμασίας: 15 λεπτά

Χρόνος μαγειρέματος: 10 – 15 λεπτά

Μερίδες: 2


200 γραμμάρια σπαγγέττι


2 κουταλιές ελαιόλαδο σκορδάτο

4 – 5 σκελίδες ψητό σκόρδο
1 μικρή κονσέρβα τόνου σε λάδι (70 γρ), στραγγισμένο

2 κουταλιές ψιλοκομμένο κόλιανδρο ή μαϊντανό εάν δεν σας αρέσει

2 μικρά φρέσκα κρεμμυδάκια, ψιλοκομμένα

Αλάτι και φρεσκοτριμμένο μαύρο πιπέρι

3 κουταλιές νερό από τα βρασμένα ζυμαρικά


Βράζουμε τα μακαρόνια al dente για 6 – 7 λεπτά ή σύμφωνα με τις οδηγίες στο πακέτο.  Τα στραγγίζουμε και κρατάμε λίγο από το νερό που τα βράσαμε.

Σε ένα αντικολλητικό τηγάνι ζεσταίνουμε το σκορδάτο ελαιόλαδο μαζί με 4 – 5 σκελίδες ψητό σκόρδο και το σωτάρουμε, πιέζοντάς το να λιώσει.  Το σωτάρουμε για 1 – 2 λεπτά μέχρι να αρχίσει να ροδίζει.  Προσθέτουμε το σπαγγέττι και λίγο από το νερό και ανακατεύουμε.

Προσθέτουμε τον τόννο, τα κρεμμυδάκια, τον κόλιαντρο, αλάτι και πιπέρι και ανακατεύουμε καλά.

Σερβίρουμε με περισσότερο κόλιαντρο ή μαϊντανό ψιλοκομμένο από πάνω και φρεσκοτριμμένο μαύρο πιπέρι.

Kopiaste and Kali Orexi / Κοπιάστε και Καλή Όρεξη,

Other relevant recipes:

How to roast Garlic

A tour in Nafplion


Nafplion Museum

Psarokostena (a nickname of Greece, which started from Nafplion) and Fassolada sti Gastra


Drepano, Vivari, Iria, Candia

If you live in Argolida or if you are visiting and would like to learn Greek Cuisine, please contact me at ivyliac AT gmail DOT com

Kopiaste and Kali Orexi,

Another trip to Assini and to the beach

A couple of days ago we visited Assini again.

The plumbing, heating & air, and electrical system as well as the outer layer of cement, inside and outside, have now finished.

Next week a layer of plastering (interior and exterior) will be added and the house will look like our neighbour’s.  The roof will also be placed, soon.

We also visited Assini last month but there wasn’t much to post as we had visited some local stores to chose bathtubs and shower units, kitchen furniture, doors and windows, floor tiles etc.

A wall between the two houses is now being built.

Remember this picture in May’s update?

Well, here is how it looks now.  This will become a second small closet in the bedroom.

The beach is only 2 km from the house, so after finishing what we had to do we went to Castraki beach to swim and have lunch before returning back to Athens.

Although it was partly cloudy, it was very hot and the sea temperature was perfect.  In fact it may have been one of the hottest throughout summer.  Although we were planning to swim more, D treaded on a sea urchine but we were quite fortunate as the spines did not go too deep and were easily removed.

(The picture is from the port of Nafplion)

So we now know that next time going there, we will wear our swimming flippers 🙂

We had lunch at the restaurant which is just above the beach.  We have eaten there many times and the food has not disappointed us yet.

The food was delicious but unfortunately as I am still on a diet, I avoided the fried potatoes, olives and feta!  I ate mpifteki (Greek burger) and Greek salad and D ate a pork chop.

Our next visit there will be around the end of August, which we will combine with a few days of holidays.

Archaeological Museum of Nafplion / Αρχαιολογικό Μουσείο Ναυπλίου

The Archaeological Museum of Nafplion is situated in Syntagma (Constitution) Square, in the centre of the old town. The three storey building was built by the Venetians in 1713 and served as barracks.

Το Αρχαιολογικό Μουσείο Ναυπλίου βρίσκεται στην Πλατεία Συντάγματος, στο κέντρο της παλιάς πόλης.  Το τριόροφο κτήριο κτίστηκε από τους Ενετούς το 1713 και χρησίμευε σαν αποθήκες του Ναυτικού.

The ground flour houses the 4th Ephorate of Prehistoric and Classical Antiquitites, Department of Archaeology of Argolida and the first and second floors houses the Museum.

Στο ισόγειο βρίσκεται ή Δ’ Εφορεία Προϊστορικών και Κλασσικών Αρχαιοτήτων, Αργολίδας και στον πρώτο και δεύτερο όροφο λειτουργεί το Μουσείο.
If you are visiting Nafplion or the region of Argolis, you should not miss a visit to the Museum.

The renovated musuem exhibits 2,000 artifacts that cover a period of 33,000 years, from the Prehistoric to the Neolithic period, Mycenaean period, Classical, Hellenistic to Roman periods from all over the prefecture of Argolid, except Argos, Lerna, Mycenae and the Sanctuary of Asklipios in Epidavros, which are exhibited in their respective local museums.

Εάν επισκεφτείτε το Νομό Αργολίδας, μην παραλείψετε να επισκεφτείτε και το Μουσείο Ναυπλίου.

Στο ανακαινισμένο μουσείο εκτίθενται 2.000 αντικείμενα που καλύπτουν μια περίοδο 33,000 χρόνων, από την προϊστορική εποχή, την παλαιολιθική, τη νεολιθική και την Εποχή του Χαλκού, την Ελληνιστική και Ρωμαϊκή περίοδο από όλο το νομό της Αργολίδος.    Δεν περιλαμβάνεται το Άργος, η Λέρνα, οι Μυκήνες και το Ασκληπιείο Επιδαύρου, τα οποία στεγάζονται σε τοπικά μουσεία.

What you will be seeing in my post is just a fragment of what you will see if you visit the Museum.

Αυτά που θα δείτε στην ανάρτησή μου είναι απλώς ένα μικρό μέρος από τα εκθέματα.

Terracotta Votive Shield (early 7th century b.C.) – Πήλινη Αναθηματική Ασπίδα (αρχές 7ου αιώνα π.Χ.)

Projection of image on one of the shields – Προβολή εικόνων που βρίσκονται στη μία Ασπίδα

Projection of image on jars – Προβολή εικόνων από τα αγγεία.

Terracotta ceremonial masks, 7th century b.C. – Πήλινα τελετουργικά προσωπεία 7ος αι π.Χ.

Paleolithic Period – Παλαιολιθική Περίοδος

Reconstruction of Grave – Αναπαράσταση Τάφου

Jewels – Κοσμήματα

Reconstruction of Houses – Αναπαράσταση Οικιών

Ορθογώνιο τμήμα δαπέδου επιστρωμένου με κονίαμα με παράσταση δελφινιών –

Τίρυνθα Ανάκτορο 13ος αι π.Χ.

Whelk shell, used as scoop – Κοχύλι Κουτάλα

Strainer (450 – 350 b.C.) – Ηθμός (σουρωτήρι) (450 – 350 π.Χ.)

Cooler – Ψυκτήρας

Fruitstand (5800 – 5300 b.C.) – Καρποδόχες (Φρουτοθήκη) (5800 – 5300 π.Χ.)

Griddle tray, tripod cooking pot, tripod griddle tray etc. (5800 – 5300 b.C.) – Μαγειρικά Σκεύη

Ladle (5800 – 5300 b.C.) – Κουτάλα (5800 – 5300 π.Χ.)

Multiple vase, 1450 – 1400 b.C. – Πολλαπλό Αγγείο 1450 – 1400 π.Χ.

Burial Jar, flask, double jug, cups – Διάφορα αγγεία: ταφικός πίθος, κλειστό αγγείο, διπλό αγγείο, κανάτα, κύπελλα

Cups, jugs, pyxis* – Κύπελλα – κανάτες – πυξίδα

*Pyxis (pl. pyxides) vessels with lids used to keep valuable objects, such as jewels etc.

Πυξίδα = δοχεία με καπάκι για να φυλάνε τα πολύτιμα αντικείμενα

Pyxis with horses on lid. Ornaments of an equilateral cross (swastika) was an ornament used in Greek Classical Antiquity. (Found at Assini 750 – 735 b.C.)

Πυξίδα με άλογα στο καπάκι

Pyxis – Πυξίδα

Pythos (2700 – 2200 b.C.) – Πίθος (2700 – 2200 π.Χ)

Alabastron (Chamber tomb 1450 – 1400 b.C.) – Αλάβαστρον (θαλαμωτός τάφος)

Bronze Helmets – Χάλικνα Κράνη

Bronze pin, fishhook, obsidian arrowhead, spoon, tongs, saw, tweezers, knife,daggers, hooks, tools, spearheads, shoulder guard and other tools

Χάλκινα εργαλεία και αντικείμενα

Bronze pyxides – Χάλκινες ΠυξίδεςBronze basin, knife, jug, bowl, mirror – Χάλκινη λεκάνη, χάλκινο ταψί κλπ

Bronze Dagger with silver rivets

Fragments of Silver Cup, painted in the metal inlay technique – Τμήμα αργυρού κυπέλλου  διακοσμημένου με την τεχνική της ζωγραφικής με μέταλλο

Bronze necklace – Χάλκινο περιδέραιο

Bronze armour – Χάλκινη Πανοπλία

The renowned Dendra Panoply (cuirass), the only one of its kind that has been found and dates back to the 15th century BC, featuring a helment made from boar tusks.

Η ξακουστή πανοπλία βρέθηκε στο Μυκηναϊκό Νεκροταφείο Δενδρών (15 αι π.Χ.) και οδοντοφρακτο κράνος και χάλκινες παραγναθίδες.